October Horticultural Tasks

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Annuals

October brings cooler temperatures by the end of the month, but early October can be tricky for us with warm temperatures.  This is traditionally the transition month for annuals when we pull out the warm season annuals and plant cool season annuals in their place.  Don’t try to plant cool season annuals prior to mid October.  Warm temperatures will cause plants to stretch.  Pansies in particular are prone to doing this, and the floppy, weak growth will be susceptible to pathogens.  When planting cool season annuals, skip the time-released fertilizers such as Osmocote because they will not release fertilizer during cold weather.  Instead, use water soluble fertilizers to get the annuals off to a good start.  When planting annuals from cell packs, remember that these plants are still just babies and handle them with care.  Never pull them from the cell pack; push them out from the bottom.

 

Turf

The fungal disease called Brown Patch that shows up in the spring in St. Augustine grass will actually need to be prevented in the fall.  Brown patch shows up as large dead areas.  Prevention of this disease includes not fertilizing in the fall and to rake up and remove affected areas.  Florida Betony emerges in the fall in turf grass and beds, and is an aggressive spreader.  Spot treat with Casaron.  The warm season grasses will begin to go dormant at this time of year.  Make sure that all mowing equipment is cleaned up and properly serviced prior to storing it for the winter.  Mowing the leaves that fall on turf will chop them up into smaller pieces which will add nutrients to the soil and encourage good micro biotic activity.

 

Perennials

Mums, asters, golden rod, swamp sunflowers, anemones, ornamental grasses, and many sedums will be in their full glory right now.  It is still a good time to divide many perennials if you didn’t get around to it last month.

 

Roses

 If a rose has outgrown its spot, now is a good time to move it.  Cut out all dead canes. Use soft twine to pull canes together to make it easier to move.  Dig the hole for the rose’s new home prior to digging up the rose.  This will minimize time the roots are exposed to air.  Cut the roots 1 to 2 feet from the center of the rose.  Use a garden fork to lift the rose from the soil.  Do not pick up the rose by the canes.  Slide the rose on to a tarp and move it, lifting it by the root ball.  Water the roots well to settle it into the new spot.  Be very careful to keep mulch away from the canes of roses to prevent fungal diseases.

 

Shrubs

Fall is a great time of year to plant or transplant shrubs.  Cooler temperatures mean less water lost to transpiration, so it is easier to get shrubs established.  American Beautyberry, Burning Bushes, Fragrant Tea Olives, Senna, and Camellia sasanqua are just some of the examples of shrubs that should be planted for fall beauty and fragrance.  Now is not the time of year to do any pruning.  If mulching existing shrub beds, be sure to remove old pine straw before adding any new straw.  This will help to remove insects that like to winter over in mulch.

 

Trees

Conifers will shed some of their needles even though they are often considered evergreen.  Do not be alarmed, as this is a natural process similar to you losing hair when brushing or washing your hair.  Deciduous trees will start their fabulous show of fall color.  Enjoy the colors, and when the leaves drop, chop them up with a lawn mower to use as a natural soil amendment and free fertilizer.  Leaves can be added to a compost pile.  Never blow leaves into the street, as this will clog the storm drains.

 

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Amy, who has a degree in horticulture, is a Certified Nursery Professional, Pesticide Applicator, Environmental Landscaper, Arborist, and Landscape Technician, and has been in the horticultural industry for several years as a garden center employee, lecturer, consultant, and designer. She was the recipient of the 2002 Horticulture Student of the Year award from the SC Nursery and Landscape Association. She is currently the landscape designer for the City of Columbia, and is a member of the SC Nursery and Landscape Association and the Greater Columbia Landscape Association. She has consulted on gardening articles for Columbia Metropolitan magazine and The State newspaper, appeared on ETV's “Making It Grow,” and has also been a radio guest on “The Andy Thomas Show” to answer questions on gardening.  PLEASE NOTE: Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent Jungle Taming's opinions.

2 COMMENTS

  1. I have bought different roses from different nurseries and they are said to be disease free but I still get black spots on them. What causes this?

  2. A rose can be purchased as certified disease free. This mean that is has left the grower free of disease. That doesn’t mean it will stay that way forever. The disease you describe is called black spot, and is very common in certain types of roses, including tea roses. What you probably want are disease resistant roses. These are hardy roses that don’t tend to get black spot on them. Black spot is a fungal disease that can develop under the right climate conditions, like high humidity, high moisture, and poor air circulation. The spores can spread by overhead watering, and even by your pruners when you cut roses. Some good preventative measures are to use drip irrigation, space the roses well so that they get good air circulation, and be sure to clean and sterilize your pruners on a regular basis when cutting roses. The best prevention, is choosing a disease resistance cultivar of rose. There are many on the market, and probably have somewhere in their ancestry, the old China roses. Search the internet for information on Earth Kind roses that have been proven to hold up to our hot, humid southern climate. One of my favorite type of roses is called ‘Belinda’s Dream’.

    I hope this helps!

    Amy